The Critics’ favorite airport restaurant is still in Houston but their buffet is not a gastronomical experience the Critic would recommend or repeat.
Upon being seated, the Critic and his Better Half were informed that ordering was possible off the menu or that the buffet was available until 3 pm for only $10.95. A deal! The Critic and the BH ordered the buffet, which, upon closer inspection, consisted of the following:
- Mixed Green Salad (pretty plain, but alright)
- Penne Pasta Salad with Goat Cheese (bland, not much going on here flavor-wise)
- Breaded, Deep-Fried Chicken (just OK)
- Breaded, Deep-Fried Fish (ditto)
- Catfish Filet (this actually looks good, but is pretty bland)
- Cooked unpeeled Shrimp (yummy, too bad there were only 5 of them)
- Gumbo-like Soup with Rice and Shrimp (hot, peppery and delicious)
There is the hilarious moment when you unwrap your napkin to find your fork and spoon, in authentic silverware. Then the waiter appears with a plastic knife, since having a real metal knife would pose a deadly temptation for those would-be seafood-loving terrorists. The Critic imagines that stabbing someone with one of those metal forks would be more effective than any damage one could cause with dull silverware knife.
In general the buffet food is bland, but this seems to be a constant in the U.S. With so many concerns about salt content, and appealing to the masses, kitchens in many restaurants eschew flavor. The Critic recommends skipping the buffet and ordering from the menu, which has many a delicious, plentiful and well-presented dish.