La Tradicion is located between San Fernando and the MegaComercial, on 60 street. It is completely air-conditioned except for some tables on the terrace where you could theoretically smoke those stinky Phillipine-made Marlboro cigarettes you bough in Molas on the way back from Sotuta de Peon.
Being as it is July, and the heat is unbearable, the original choice for lunch, Colonos, was discarded and the Critic’s group decided on La Tradicion, which the Critic had heard or read about somewhere.
Chef David Cetina was at the door to welcome the party and soon all were seated at two tables – real tables with real chairs, not the cheap plastic ones – and had menus in their hands. After ordering drinks (micheladas, horchatas and jamaicas) a waiter arrived with a small plate of refried black beans with tortilla chips and another with codzitos for snacking while the appetizers arrived. The beans were not only good, they were hot, a real first since at most restaurants they are served luke-warm. The codzitos were crunchy and smothered in what seemed like a home-made tomato sauce. Very good.
The appetizers arrived soon after; crispy longaniza de Valladolid and delicious papadzules. In fact, the papadzules were so good that more were ordered almost right away. The temperature was excellent (hot) and the tortillas fresh, the sauce tasty. And the tortillas were thick and hand-made. Nothing like a fresh tortilla, filled with crunchy/chewy longaniza (a kind of thin flavorful chorizo) with some nose-watering, tear inducing chile habanero salsa.
Then the main course – panuchos and salbutes were ordered along with the now-obligatory Critic signature dish, queso relleno. At first sight, the Critic was alarmed by the apparent small size of the bowl of queso relleno set before him, but that fear was soon allayed with an abundance of fresh tortillas which seemed to make the dish last for hours. It was delicious. While the Critic’s better half commented that the cheese wasn’t the requisite Gouda (or Edam) the Critic didn’t notice and happily devoured his queso.
Afterwards, for the sake of investigation (and to further complicate an impending attack of sever heartburn later) flan and crema española were ordered for dessert. They were creamy and delicious as well.
The rest of the menu looked very good as well. At the table next to the Critic’s party, a family was enjoying what looked like a very authentic-looking and generous portion of puchero de tres carnes, a typical Yucatecan platillo which you can’t find that often these days.
The bill? $800 pesos without tip.
All in all, La Tradicion was a pleasant surprise. The Critic would highly recommend it to both locals and visitors alike.
On a score of 1-5, La Tradicion rates a solid 4.5!