Category Archives: Inspired

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. Aenean commodo ligula eget dolor. Aenean massa. Cum sociis natoque penatibus et magnis dis parturient montes, nascetur ridiculus mus.

Feedback Please

The Casual Restaurant Critic needs some feedback here folks; it’s evident that someone is reading the charming reviews posted – note the live feed on the right hand side of the page – here but the Critic is getting no feedback and since there is no monetary reward for spewing forth unsolicited criticisms of Meridas’ culinary scene, such as it is, your feedback is what keeps the cantankerous Critic motivated.

Thank you.

Juan Luis Guerra in Merida


In a word, fantastic!!!

In spite of the blurriness you see in the iPhone photo (hopefully Steve will include a decent camera at some point in his newest iPhone) the concert was very sharp indeed.

He started almost on time, around 9:30, under a clear, cool, moonlit sky and performed for almost 2 hours to a very enthusiastic Merida audience in the crappy Kukulkan baseball stadium. I kept thinking, it sure is nice of him to come here; I mean he is truly world class and here he is playing this dinky place. I also felt bad for the people up in the bleachers, who must have seen just a speck.

The music was absolutely perfect, as was the sound and simple lighting. The musicians had their moment in the middle of the concert, performing an extended demo of their percussion talents and doing a bit of Michael Jacksons’ Thriller dance, complete with white gloves.

Juan Luis himself was friendly and his voice is just as good as 20 years ago, when he was first noticed by yours truly.

All in all, a great night out!

The “Formerly-White” City

This is in answer to Malcolms’ question on the previous post and since it is something I always write, perhaps I should elaborate on it a little.

All (OK 95% of) the tourist information out there always (94%) refers to Merida as the ‘white city’. Does anyone ever question this; wonder why? There are several versions or theories as to why Merida got its’ reputation as ‘la ciudad blanca‘.

The first; that Merida was so devoid of garbage that its’ inhabitants dubbed it white, as in clean. If you have lived here for any length of time, this is clearly a joke, as a large majority of Meridas’ present inhabitants could care less about the cleanliness of their city. In any city in Mexico you will see people sweeping garbage, leaves etc from their sidewalks… onto the streets and Merida is no exception. One of the most infuriating sights you can witness in Merida is seeing the electric window on a brand new Lincoln smoothly sliding down and from which a hand emerges that carelessly tosses a plastic bag or bottle into the street. Believe me, these are the same people that would never do this when traveling in Houston or Miami.

So, that is one theory behind the ‘white city’ moniker. Meridanos may have been careful about keeping their city clean, but this is no longer true, unfortunately. So “formerly-white” would be more appropriate.

Another theory: the inhabitants of the city wore white. White guayaberas, white pants, white shoes for the caballeros and white dresses and hipiles for the ladies. This theory I can actually believe in to a degree; there are one or two dapper gentlemen with carefully gelled hair that frequent the historic centro and they wear all white. However, this is a bygone tradition and, as in the case of the ‘clean city’ no longer justified; therefore, “formerly-white”.

I took a Yucatan history course over a few months (once a week) with historian and teacher Jorge Vargas at the Rogers’ Hall school and would highly recommend it to anyone who has any interest in history at all. Jorge makes history come alive and his specialty is debunking a lot of common myths and beliefs about Yucatecan history that are taken for granted by most folks. Somehow through my interest in politics and the past, and I think it was during these classes, I learned that the walls around the old Merida (you can see pieces of them here and there) were there not only for defense, but also to keep out the ‘Indian’ riff raff. Among the Indians (Mayans) the city of Merida became known as the ‘white city’ because Indians were not allowed into the city alone; if they had to be there, they were to be accompanied by a white person. Again, another theory and no longer the case, as you can see in the first 5 minutes after entering the city. Formerly white again.

Does this help to explain my continuing use of the term?

More on the “happy finish” story

It seems the Diario de Yucatan is determined to get the word out about those massages on Progreso’s beach.

In an article on page 14 of todays’ Local section, the headline reads: “Critica la Iglesia un ‘final feliz’ (Church criticizes a ‘happy ending’). Apparently Progresos’ head church person heard about the story and called it a ‘vulgarity’ and stated that the citizens of Progreso have much more to offer than these types of ‘sexual attentions’.

Personally, I don’t know what he means; there’s precious little in Progreso to offer the cruise ship tourists besides beer, fried fish and tired handicrafts mass-produced elsewhere.

His closing remarks exhort people to ‘avoid’ these services (not abstain, avoid) to preserve their health and good morals.

I think it might actually be good for the Progreso economy and may result in some more money in the municipal coffers that could be used for say picking up the trash the good citizens of the port happily leave strewn about without a care.

– Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Discreet Massages on the Beach

In yet another scene from the Yucatan that makes this neurotic foreigner smile, there was a small article in the Diario de Yucatan newspaper, page 11 of the Local section, that had the following headline:

Piden discrecion a las masajistas (Masseuses asked to exercise discretion)

Apparently, authorities, handcrafts salespeople and service providers in Progreso claim that it is possible that there are some masseuses or their clients who have asked or offered a ‘happy ending’ to their massages on the beach at Progreso; perhaps you have seen the tables set up under the coconut palm trees by the malecon for the cruise ship tourists when they venture into what they are sure is the ‘real’ Mexico.

The article goes on to say that the ‘authorities’ do not know anything about a ‘happy finish’ and the Director of Tourism, Felipe Manzano Frias, denies that Progreso is a sexual tourism destination (good Lord, one would hope not, ugh) and if there were any such cases, they are isolated incidents because, as he put it, “we are not aware of such practices”

Personally, I cannot imagine anyone getting a ‘happy ending’ on a massage table on the beach in Progreso – can you? This is not a particularly private area, as anyone familiar with the concept is aware and so one would have people – locals, other cruise ship passengers – milling about while you are getting happy? I mean, look at the photo above: I see nothing there that could be described as ‘happy’ (or even particularly relaxing for that matter).

In any case, the main message seems to be that the masseuses be discreet about these ‘practices’, which are, after all, just a possibility.

Merida Scenes III

Another happy scene from the Comercial Mexicana parking lot, where those responsible for law and order and setting a good example for the rest of us mortal citizens are doing a fine job. I guess they were just in a hurry so that’s OK. This seems to be the justification for all sorts of inconsiderate behavior by many residents of the formerly white city…

Sara Brightman’s Screw Global Warming Tour

Yes, that’s Sara, no ‘h’, as the newspaper put it this morning.

Our hallowed Instituto of Cultura, captained merrily once again by Jorge Esma, a local politician we just can’t seem to get enough of, is presenting Sarah Brightman in concert, at the Chichen Itzá archeological site. Our friend Jorge was of course the guy who brought us Pavarotti and Domingo as well, thereby consolidating his position as artistic überpromoter and cultural go-to guy in the state. He has had some reasonably good ideas in the past but continuing to milk Chichen Itzá for profit seems to me a lousy one.

Call me a cynic but isn’t this promoting concerts and charging exorbitant amounts for tickets (up to $8000 pesos or $600 USD in the so-called VIP area) the job of private capitalism? Should we really be paying taxes (the few of us that actually pay them) to organize and pay for this kind of event under the thin guise of ‘promotion’ for the state’s touristic wonders? I don’t know about you, but I don’t want my tax pesos used to destroy more threatened Yucatecan fauna to make way for FOUR ADDITIONAL parking lots near Chichen Itzá. Or to DOUBLE the size of the ‘abandoned’ airport, which will mean paving over more jungle. See his interview in today’s Por Esto newspaper.

Why not call this the Sarah Brightman Screw Global Warming Tour?

Promotion? Give me a break.

Let’s face it: this event (and the upcoming concert with Elton John) will benefit Jorge and anyone on his good side involved in the planning and organization only. Promotion? Everyone in the world already knows where Chichen Itzá is!! And those that don’t, also don’t know or care about this Sarah Brightman person.

What are they promoting besides the lining of their own pockets? Nothing.

And how is it that neighboring Campeche state can bring in Il Divo, which must be charging an arm and a leg these days for a show, to celebrate their anniversary or whatever, and have the concert be completely FREE? Everyone makes fun of Campeche and their funny ways; boy are they ever stupid to offer a concert to everyone FREE when there is so much money to be made!

This sucks. I hope she gets laryngitis and has to cancel.

Before they cement over more jungle.