Category Archives: Inspired

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ExPat Quiz Notes

Thanks to JW for an expat quiz found at http://www.ezinearticles.com/?Mexico:-Expat-Quiz&id=66612 which is, actually a little lame, in the Neurotic Foreigners opinion. For one thing, Mexicans don’t ‘eat styrofoam plates’ and ‘large mountainous piles of dog poop on the sidewalks’ would imply that sidewalks are commonplace. The aforementioned canine excrement can be found much more readily on the many sidewalks of Paris or Cologne.

The expat quiz – IMHO – could be a little more sublime; something along the lines of the questions outlined in the following

Are You Ready to Become an ExPat in Yucatan? Questionnaire.

For Regular Folks

  1. Do you like the idea of giving up the newspaper as a source of objective news?
  2. Do you enjoy the bumper car attraction at your local fair enough to engage in this activity on a daily basis with your own personal commuting device?
  3. While on the subject of driving, do you find painted lanes, traffic signs and other such nonsense to be simply a restriction on your personal freedoms in a libertarian sort of way?
  4. Does the idea of spending a week or more renewing your FM3 permit (lo siento, pero le faltó la copia de su _____) on an annual basis make you feel good about governments in general?
  5. Do you enjoy receiving bi-monthly electricity bills for peso amounts completely at odds with your actual consumption?
  6. When you complain to the omnipotent CFE about the previously mentioned point and realize that it is they themselves who determine – and no one else – what to charge, do you think “Wow, these folks are really efficient!”
  7. How about power outages on a weekly or ‘whenever it rains’ basis? Do those make you think how lucky you are to be able to enjoy conversations with neighbors or dust off that scrabble board and think of interesting words (mayan ones don’t count) by candlelight?
  8. Do you feel superior and get an ego boost when Mexicans jack up the price of anything they’re selling (car, house, rent, whatever) when they see the color of your freckles and hear your terrible accent?
  9. Do you enjoy, and find challenging, remodeling your home on a continuous basis, thereby providing employment for many and varied tradespeople, each of whom will undermine the work done by the previous one?
  10. Does the adoption of stray street dogs and treating them like pampered family members make you feel that somehow you have changed and become a better person?

If you answer “Why, YES” to any number of these questions, you may indeed be ripe for expatriation. Come on down!

Of course there are many more items and perhaps one day I will put them up, especially those related to work and business ownership.

Halloween in Merida aka Hanal Pixan

The neurotic foreigner writing this always delights in the confusion surrounding what, in fact, Yucatecans are ‘supposed’ to celebrate at the end of the month of October. The great majority of gringos and slightly misplaced Canadians continue to have some sort of instinctive Pavlovian reaction to the idea of what to do on October 31st, while at the same time being appreciative and respectful of local traditions, which in the case of Mexico and Yucatan in particular, means the Day of the Dead.

Locally, it is called Hanal Pix’an, or Feast of the Souls and the celebration consists of making special foods, mainly the xec, a mixed salad of chopped jicama, citrus fruit, cilantro and chile and the wonderful mucbipollo aka pib, a large tamal preferably baked under ground, where the smoky heat imbues this classic fall dish with a distinctive flavor.

But you could learn more about these traditions from all kinds of websites and pages out here in internet-land. Do a search on Hanal Pixan and you are there. It is not the intention of the neurotic foreigner to pretend to give readers a class on local customs.

One web page you will not learn anything from is: http://thematrix.sureste.com/cityview/merida2/articulos/hanal.htm where the translation has been done so literally and stiltingly as to make it completely and utterly incomprehensible. Done up by some extremely low-payed employee of the local Enlaces y Comunicaciones (or just typed into some online translation web page), it is really quite hilariously embarassing. Some personal highlights, lifted directly from the page above, include:
  • The “Hanal pixán “, or eaten of the bores, is a tradition of the Mayan town that takes to the end to remember of a special way the friends and relatives who went ahead in the eternal trip.

Now the dearly departed may be dead, but surely not all of them were bores so as to warrant calling the whole event Eaten of the Bores! In fact, it sounds more like a horror flick by Wes Craven, where poor folks in small villages were consumed and digested by out of work movie critics whose critiques were so boring they were relegated to eating villagers…

  • salt but: tortilla to which meat is put to him underneath ollejo and soon is fried to eat. The name is formed by Salt: light, and But: to insert, that is to say, slightly inserted.

I have lived in Merida for close to 20 years, and have never seen this local dish called by this name. I thought it was a salbut. Maybe there is new saltier version out there. And to have meat put underneath your ollejo sounds positively pornographic, even without that last phrase ‘slightly inserted’. In fact the definition doesn’t make any sense: If Salt in Mayan means Light and But to Insert Slightly what you have is a flashlight up your butt. Really, now.

Definitely have a look at the page! It’s a riot.

Oh, and before you get your knickers in a twist and start composing your email to me saying that I am such a culturally insensitive boor and how dare I criticize this poor third world attempt at explaining what is obviously a charming pagan ceremony, let me clarify three things: a) I LOVE the Hanal Pixan and have made altars myself and am an avid consumer of copious quantities of mucbipollos (with or without espelon, limpios or with bones) thereby stimulating the local underground economy; b) the page is maintained by probably the largest and most important media company in the Yucatan with newspapers and more and enough of a budget to warrant a proper translation and c) I have personally offered at one point to translate for these folks, especially in the embarassing tourism translations department, and had no takers.

Presidential Candidate Proposals – More of the Wish List

Madrazo – oh I’m sorry, it’s just ‘Roberto’ now – has one billboard that states “Fair Pensions: Madrazo Can Do It”.

How: there is no indication of how, nor where the money for those fair pensions will come from which could be a problem because ‘Roberto’ aka David Copperfield is also going to lower the price of gas, gasoline and electricity. Battered women and domestic violence? Violence and crime in general? Roberto ‘El Mago Korbel’ has this all under control. Don’t you worry about a thing.

All these vacuous proposals say so little and leave one wondering how in the world these catchy slogans are going to translate into actual actions.

I have a few more proposals I would like to see a presidential candidate make.

Unions

The bloated, corrupt and self serving labor unions have served their purpose, since the days of the slave-like haciendas are over and the world is growing smaller and becoming one homogenous mass of humanity. I would like to see a candidate challenge the notion that some of these union benefits are still viable in 2006 and beyond.

For example, take the union that ‘represents’ the workers of the Comision Federal de Electricidad. Their one outstanding benefit that is a slap in the face to all the other folks who work to pay their bills, is the one that states that all CFE employees get free electricity. Free electricity! The one biggest bill that a homeowner can have is the electricity bill. But all the CFE employees do not have to contend with this one! Cool huh? Cool is right, because all the CFE employee houses have multiple air conditioners on, 24/7. This is so ridiculous that if it wasn’t true it would be laughable. How can a company be profitable and efficient with this kind of overhead. Sorry, but this benefit must go.

Goodbye aguinaldo

Another fine example is the aguinaldo. I have written on these subjects before, but hey, maybe someone with a whole lot of ‘huevos’ will take the initiative. At the end of each year, Mexico’s ancient 15th century labor laws state that employees must receive an additional 15-day paycheck called an aguinaldo. Some companies, and governments in particular, have extended this questionable ‘benefit’ to 1 month or more. How in the world can wages ever be increased if at the end of the year, the employer – the evil ‘patron’ – must shell out additional paychecks. Would it not be more beneficial to increase wages year-round and have people live better year-round?

Hourly Wages

And while I am on the subject of wages, why do employers have to pay a 48 hour work week and the 7th day (of no work) as well? In other words, a 56 hour work week? Another reflection on the ridiculously ancient labor laws in effect in this crazy country.

It is time to get those wage laws into the 21st century and I would love to hear some presidential candidate say that his proposal was to move to an hourly salary for employees. An hourly salary based on productivity and flexible enough to accomodate students, part-timers, working Moms and the employers themselves.

Hopefully a presidential candidate, if not for this election, a future one, is reading this…

Presidential Candidate Proposals – A Wish List

Tired of all the same bullshit lines from all the tired old faces in Mexican politics? I sure know I am. “Passion for Mexico” says Calderon. “Roberto Si Puede” says Madrazo. “I am not debating” says López Obrador. It’s all the same tired BOshit (Chris Rock pronunciation) as always.

Here are some original ideas that would sway my vote (if I could vote, which I can’t ‘cuz I am a foreigner). These are concrete ideas that would make a difference to many people and help Mexico out of it’s paternalistic 15th century mindset, and not be so much more BOshit.

1. Do away with some taxes. Any tax. Here’s one idea – I humbly suggest eliminating the onerous tenencia tax. Tax for having a car. Would that the money be used for a purpose even remotely green in nature. I don’t see it. This dumb-ass tax is like the income tax up north in that it started as a one-time thing. A ‘temporary measure’ to raise money for some Olympics. Well the ‘temporary’ has become permanent and the politicians must be licking their chops every year when the stupid populace says ‘ni modo‘ and pays up.

2. This one is even better. The ’employment tax’. Here is the Mexican government – at all levels – bitching and moaning about employment, we need more employment, we need jobs, job creation, the private sector has a responsability to provide jobs etc. etc. We need foreign investors to come here and open factories and sweat shops and and and. Bla bla bla.

Then, when the jobs are created, the factories opened, the investor naively believing the fairy tales coming from the mouths of Mexican politicians, you get slapped with an employment tax.

Forgive my ignorance, but I don’t know what the rate is in other states of the Mexican Republic, but in the Yucatan it is 2% of your payroll. In short, you the employer, are being punished for creating more jobs. Thank you for investing here and providing those jobs…. now pay me. Like the ‘tenencia’ tax, if this employment tax was put to provably good use, well great. But I don’t see it. I don’t think anyone else does either.

3. The last proposal for the presidential candidates for this particular emission also regards vehicles. The North American Free Trade Agreement opened the border up to imports of personal vehicles. For the first few years of this agreement, the vehicles had to be pickup trucks and OVER 10 YEARS OLD! To help the poor farmers you see. I still don’t see any campesinos driving pickup trucks but there sure are a lot of them. So we now have all the old vehicles that in the US are no longer of any use. This policy, a true third world idea, promotes the use of inefficient vehicles and technology which help to destroy the Mexican environment. the message to the world is ‘Poor us, we can only afford your first world shitty cast-offs.’ Why don’t they do this with clothing too? We could all dress in hand me down clothing from the richer nations!

The proposal is this: eliminate the vehicle tenencia tax on any new car featuring non-fossil fuel technology. That is, promote the import and purchase of vehicles that are environment-friendly thereby placing Mexico in the forefront of environmental conservation technology.

I have a few more proposals that I will throw out there in upcoming writings. Perhaps they will make sense to one or more candidates.

Mexican Politics – A Tired Presidential Campaign

Since the main NotTheNews site is mainly about life in Merida, why not use this little-visited, un-read blog space, to vent about Mexican politics; particularly the upcoming elections for a shiny, new, president. All opinions represented herein are mine, and are in no way representative of BlogSpot, GeoCities, MSNBC, Sala de Fiestas D’Williams or El Niplito. They are the observations of a neurotic foreigner, nada más.

Shiny and new are of course, euphemisms, euphamisms or euphomisms (I like the first spelling the best, how about you?) since none of the contenders for president of this beautiful country are shiny or new.

Rather, they are dull and old. The same tired old slogans, promises, toothy grins and 3/4 shots looking ‘handsome’ on giant billboards around the country. There are 3 candidates in the running: Felipe Calderon (PAN), Roberto Madrazo (PRI) and Andres Lopez (PRD). In addition to those main characters, the play this time around includes a decent female candidate Patricia Mercado, representing some obscure political alliance and Dr. Simi, who runs a chain of pharmacies across the country; his marketing slogan (for the pharmacies anyway) is the same product, for less. This could probably apply to the political offerings of all the candidates in this federal election as well. Dr. Simi’s campaign tours include scantily-clad ‘Simi Chicas‘, models – they are called that in reference to his name and not to any possible simian resemblance on their part – who drape themselves around Dr. Simi and say very little, thus promoting not only the good doctor, but also women’s liberation and positive feminism, in that charmingly degrading way so common to Latin American third world countries.

I don’t, being the casual observer that I am, perceive any particular enthusiasm so far, with regards to any one candidate, beyond the usual paid-for-by-the-party fervor at public events where each candidate appears. There is no sense of renewal or hope, like there was in the 2000 election when Vicente Fox (PAN) drove the PRI out of the president’s chair after they had held that office for 70 years! 70 years! There is no sense of any excitement at all; in fact, there is a growing sense (again I am not a professional analyst, just gut feelings here) of apathy, total and complete discontent, discouragement, disappointment and dissatisfaction with the whole electoral process. I believe that voter abstention will be way up from the last federal elections, when Fox won.

Who will the shiny, new president be? One of these three:

Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador (PRD) – a mouthful of a name which the gringos will probably shorten to Andres Lopez – which doesn’t have the same regal ring to it.

AMLO (as he is abbreviated) is the governor/leader/mayor of Mexico City, the unmanageable, overpopulated, polluted and corrupt largest city in Mexico and official international municipal basket case and as such has been charged with causing all the city’s woes. It is ridiculous to think that any one man is responsible for the irresponsibility of 25 million citizens each of whom believes that it is their god-given right to do as they please, when they please, and to whomever they please at whatever time they bloody well feel like it. So please. As if anyone could restore order there. Jesus Christ himself would throw his hands up in despair and go back to the cross. Mexico City is a mess because the citizens of Mexico City have made it so. But I digress.

AMLO has a good chance of getting a lot of votes from the people he has helped, which are mostly the ignorant masses of the needy and the elderly (who are also needy) to whom he has generously (not out of his own pocket of course) and grandly distributed small tokens of … of… money. Despised by many who see him as a leftist Chavez-style threat, he is just a smooth operator, leading the PRI rejects in a style reminiscent of the past. One of his goals (‘get money’), apparently, is to maintain tight control over Mexican state industries like Pemex and the electricity monopolies. This is a popular concept in many deluded Mexican’s minds, who think that having their resources exploited, and being robbed, by their own fellow Mexicans with no accounting whatsoever is better than having it done by someone else. In their warped and fervently nationalistic brains, rather than having competition from three or four international firms vying for our resources and having our well-thought-out conditions met, it is better to have our giant, inefficient, bureaucratic, polluting Soviet-style enterprise (Por el Progreso de Mexico!!!!) (Un Pais Con Energia es un Pais con Futuro!!!) doing whatever the hell they want.

AMLO appeals to this kind of geopolitical mindset, the whiners who think life is unfair. The same ones who complain that the gringos are too hard on the Mexicans sneaking across the border and that they have RIGHTS por Dios.

Felipe Calderon Hinojosa (PAN) is the ruling party’s ‘gallo’. The ‘gallo’ is the rooster, and this is the one Vicente Fox’s party picked to run against the others. Said to be more of a follower of the PAN political doctrine (whatever that may be, other than ‘get money’), Felipe is seen as the only half-decent choice from a pack of really crappy candidates. He has changed his campaign slogan at least 3 times; which means that he is a) not thinking his campaign slogans through very well, b) not very consistent in his ideas or c) didn’t have enough money to pay for a decent campaign manager.

He seems to me, to be the middle of the road kinda guy, the ‘pan sin sal‘ (bread without salt) or ‘caca de paloma – ni apesta ni huele‘ (pigeon shit – doesn´t smell either way) candidate who will, by default, when those few voters who do go out and stand in line to vote (What for? they wonder), get the ‘voto de castigo’ which is the punishing vote. To punish the other, worse, candidates, the voters will punish them by voting for Calderon. A sad way to win but in the end (‘get money’) it works.

Roberto Madrazo Pintado (PRI) – the ancient, Triassic-era PRI has resurrected this dinosaur from the swampy depths of the political tar pits, who now touts himself as something new and fresh. Your grandmothers last weeks Depends are fresher than this guy. He stands for everything that was, and yet some people actually believe it (or, I suspect, are being paid handsomely and desperately, to say they do).

His vision (besides ‘get money’) includes the triumphant return of the PRI to power, while bitching and moaning about all the things the PAN is doing (and his party ignored and laughed off the same accusations when they were made by the PAN to the then-ruling PRI) and has shortened his campaign name from Roberto Madrazo to just Roberto. Roberto sounds more friendly don’t you think? Why, when you put it like that, I even forget what his last name was… ah yes, Madrazo. A ‘madrazo’ in Mexican slang, is a ‘hit’ as in a physical slap, punch, kick. If someone gives you a ‘madrazo’ then you have been hit. Does this have anything to do with the sudden name-shortening? I wonder.

There you have the short list of the fine fellows who aspire to Mexico’s presidency in the next federal elections. None have any original, novel ideas to help push what could still be a great country in the right direction. In my next attempt at political journalism, I will try to outline what I think are some important steps that a political candidate could try to undertake to move Mexico from the 17th century and it’s ‘Moon Over Parador’ feel to the year 2006.

Where are the Trees?

Is it really April already? How time flies when your life is passing you by! The March issue of NotTheNews was fun; all about Long Beach, California, it actually got some readers to write back in Long Beach’s defense, which was pleasant. There is nothing more pleasing for an aspiring neurotic writer than getting some feedback. It could be good, bad, or scathing. It doesn’t matter. Any feedback is good. As Brian Regan, the comic, says “It’s all good”.

At the moment, I am more than a little concerned with the ever-declining tree population in Merida and the Yucatan in general. The big picture, when seen from the air as in an airplane when you are flyoing somewhere from Merida, is that there is still lots of greenery out there. Huge tracts of land, green and lush. But the development that is happening around Merida, the outskirts so to speak, are square white and grey stains on this green landscape and it is pretty frightening.

Merida’s centro and the older colonias still look pretty balanced as far as white and grey concrete vs. green oxygen-providing vegetation. But all those new developments, especially the larger ones like Francisco de Montejo to the north and Juan Pablo II in the south, are completely devoid of anything green.

I am rambling I know but this is the beginning of the end of life in the Yucatan as we know it. The rural, peaceful, relaxed and the “hammock under a huge shade tree” feel of the Yucatan will make way for the urban, rushed, noisy, tree-less absolute mess that is Mexico City. The entire country is patterned on the way development has progressed in Mexico City; that seems to be the natural direction and example to follow.

More later….

Christmas in Merida, Yucatan

Christmas in Merida is

  • Christmas ornaments in Sam’s Club and Costco but especially Sam’s Club (thank YOU Mr. Sam Walton) since mid July – early August. Yes indeed, when you go to Costco and Sam’s Club (especially Sam’s Club) to buy your megabags of Doritos and Cheetos and Barcel Jalapeño Chips and cases of beer and Coca for your guests at the beach house because it’s temporada, you will be greeted with Christmas ornaments and some Santa Clauses hanging around in the air conditioned bodega that is Sam’s.
  • Shopping in the Gran Plaza mall for clothes and shoes at Zara and Nine West now that those stores are here and us Yucatecans don’t need to travel to Cancun anymore to be ‘fashion’ although some of Merida’s wannabe elite resent the fact that anyone can now buy the same clothes they are buying, thus reducingthe advantage of status conferred upon them by their beautiful clothing (made in Indonesia by brown people tambien)
  • Ordering Pierneas Claveteadas and Pavo Envinado from your local purveyor of home made food ie Minelia or similar. you just don’t want to cook yourself and since the muchacha will be away…
  • If you live in the colonias populares (popular neighborhoods which are unpopular due to the fact that they are filled with poor, the indigenous and the undesirable masses that actually make up the great majority of Mexico, Yucatan included, although you wouldn’t know it if you watched Mexican TV but that is another story) you will be treated to people singing the rama which is a little Christmas song and dance number that a group of skinny brown kids will sing at your doorstep and you will give them money or something to make them go away and pester the neighbors. Think Halloween. Combined with religious Christmas imagery. Kind of a folksy Tim Burton-ish thing. This will never be done by the paler kid in Meridas wealthier neighborhoods, since this would be oh so not cool. Think “eeww”.
  • Aguinaldos, which are of course a retrograde Mexican concept whereby you pay your workers an additional 15 days of wages in early or mid-December, a benefit aquired by workers in times of slavery and ferociously defended to this day, although keeping the aguinaldo means that workers will never get a decent wage, since this will be too expensive at aguinaldo time. But the great majority who live with their hands and mouths open, waiting for someone else (el gobierno, el DIF, el IMMS, el patron, el santo, LA VIRGEN) would be most upset of you took away their precious third world aguinaldo. The politicians of course, as well as bank employees and others, get aguinaldos that range from 1 month of salary to 6 months worth of wages!!! Imagine that! Obviously, no one can raise the daily wage with these kinds of backward benefits. So the aguinaldo is used to compensate for the shitty wages paid throughout the year. Cool huh?
  • I will add more neurotic thoughts as they occur!

A New Site?

As an opening note, let me start by mentioning that my good friends the Campos were over the other day and mentioned that they had started a blog about life in Yucatan and why didn’t I try it? It was free (gratis – hasta puñaladas!!) and easy to set up.

Lo and behold, here it is. For the next little while I will try to be a little more frequent in my neurotic ramblings on life in Mérida. I say that because setting up a little issue every month or three was becoming a little tedious, and I was just not getting around to it, period.

For those of you wondering ‘de que demonios esta hablando este’ I would respectfully request that you visit http://www.geocities.com/elmaloso.geo/ to get the full background on what NotTheNews has been about for the last 10 years. Yes, 10 years. When culture shock after moving to Merida from Canada became too overwhelming and threatened to destabilize my mental health, my shrink suggested writing down my neurotic observations. And that I have been doing, on and off, for the last 10 years.

As always, like they are trained to say in Starbucks in the U.S. (not at the one in the D.F. airport) “enjoy”.