Another one of those great finds, La Chozita is located in front of the multi-million dollar investment white elephant known as the Hospital de Altas Especialidades or something equally pretentious (isn’t it great how a country as poor as Mexico can spend this much money on a first-world hospital and then not open it?!) in that newly popularized part of town known as AltaBrisa. Yes, where the mall is.

This little gem is located across the street from all that shiny new commercialism.

There is a palapa roof to identify it with; right next door is a tiny cibercafe where one can presumably check email and surf the web. Parking is on the street in front and there are 4 tables.

La Chozita is home made Yucatecan food and had been previously recommended to the Critic. The wait seemed eternal; a full 20 minutes passed from the moment the very smily cook came out of the kitchen to take the orders, carefully writing down the very complicated order of salbutes, polcanes and empanadas to when the first food actually appeared in front of the ravenous Critic and the BH.

As a friend would say… “To Die For”. This was so good it was ridiculous. The empanadas were crispy, the salbutes were as well and that carnitas were tasty. Everything was freshly made, and fried to order. Unreal. The habanero and separate tomato sauces were a refreshing, biting complement to all that fried masa.

5 salbutes, 1 polcan, 2 quesadillas, 2 cokes and a bottle of water came to the even more ridiculous amount of… ready for it? $80.00. PESOS!!! Even with a $20 peso tip, this bill for lunch for two came in at under $8 USD at today’s exchange rate of $13.75 pesos/1 usd.

SPECIAL NOTE TO THOSE STAYING AT THE IN KA’AN GUEST HOUSE – this is just around the corner from you!

Tacos de Jiba could be translated as ‘hump’ tacos, since they refer to the jiba on the backs of the local cattle, which are the hump-backed variety. If you can get over the image of eating meat carved from that bump, you can try the tacos at this taqueria located behind the Gran Plaza shopping mall.

The sign looks promising, and the location is perfect for an after-work bite.

Unfortunately, that is about all that is good about this place. There is one, hapless waiter and what seems like someone’s grandmother in the kitchen (although this cannot be confirmed because you cannot see the kitchen) since the food preparation is extremely sloooooooooow.

Once you are seated, the little man comes over, leaves you a menu and takes your drink order and after some time returns with that and then will take your order. On this occasion, the Critic and his BH ordered a guacamole to start and 2 orders of tacos. After what seemed like an eternity, during which time the Critic enviously eyed the crepes coming out the kitchen next door (the tables are mixed together, some for the crepes place and others for the taqueria) and began to chew on the potted plants nearby, the first order of tacos arrived. Just one, mind you to make the meal more interesting. Half the party waited patiently while the other half said, go ahead, they’re going to get cold. After some time, the waiter passed by and the guacamole was asked for. It’s coming. Then it came out and after another short wait, the other order of tacos was brought to the table. There were cutlery issues as well but the over-all impression was of extreme slow-ness.

And how were the tacos? Nothing to write home about. For just over 100 pesos you can eat here, but don’t come hungry or expect any kind of service. You are far better off at the million other tacos places in Merida.

Rating: 2. Don’t bother unless you are totally desperate and have no car to get anywhere else.

note the finger – the Critic was being discrete…

Just days after visiting this place for the first time, the Critic stopped by again to pick up an order of consommé and pozole to take home to a sick Better Half. When you have a cold, a hot consommé or spicy pozole should be just as good as a hot chicken broth – or that was the thinking.

In any case, in short order the Critic was heating up both soups at home and the portions were just enough to feed two people. They came with tostadas, oregano, lettuce and radishes, spicy ground chiles, salsas; all the possible condiments you could wish for to dress up both of these broths.

Delicious was the verdict, the Better Half did not get much better but it was tasty.

Total price of this take out? $54.00. Unbelievable. That’s less than 5 usabucks for 2 orders of home-made soup.

The other day, feeling hungry and definitely not in the mood for the usual WinFa/Trompos/BurgerKing lunch, the Casual Restaurant Critic sallied forth from the occasionally air conditioned Gran Plaza mall with his Better Half, strolled across the parking lot in the general direction of Starbucks and then veered off to the left to have lunch in the red-signed restaurant that proclaims, in an apparently Coca Cola sponsored, red-lettered sign: ‘Cocina Mexicana’. Next to that, a smaller logo with the words El Fogon.

For those readers unfamiliar with the term ‘antojitos‘ it means snacks or perhaps appetizers and is generally used to refer to food prepared in the wach style. If you don’t know what a wach is, you need to find the NotTheNews Living Dictionary (it’s online around here someplace or order a printed version at lulu.com) and look it up. Mexico City street cuisine is alive and well in Merida and there are several places where one can find typical food from the country’s capital. Jardin Balbuena is one of those places. This place – el Fogon – that the Critic is writing about today, is another.

The Better Half and the CRC ordered enough food to sink a canoe, which is what usually happens when one is starving and the menu looks appetizing! The following items were ordered, believe it or not:

• pozole de Jalisco, one bowl
• taquitos de barbacoa, 3 to an order
• consommé de barbacoa, one bowl
• tostadas de barbacoa, order of 3
• gorditas de chicharron prensado, 2 pieces

There is enough cholesterol in the above order to keep an entire African village fed for a month, but the Critic and his BH managed to finish most of it. Everything was hot and for the most part, tasty. The pozole was a little on the watery side as if the Critic had arrived at the final pressing of a large pot of soup that had been re-watered for several days to make it last a little longer. The taste of the tostadas was smothered by the heavy cream that the waches like to pour on their sopes and antojitos, along with that crumbled goat cheese, but all in all the food was satisfying.

Service was familiar ie: family style. This means that a family member is taking orders from the table and really doesn’t have a clue, but was not unpleasant. The food came quickly and the table soon filled with plates and bowls. The outdoor setting on this November afternoon was cool, breezy and very comfortable. There was a view of the small street and the Gran Plaza parking lot. This would be a great place to sit and watch the Christmas madness unfold in December.

And the bill? All that food and a bottle of Coke came to a whopping 171 pesos, which at today’s exchange rates is about 15 US dollars. Quite a bargain, really.

Today the Critic was invited for lunch at Laredo’s, a popular Northern Mexican restaurant located on Montejo. The Critic recalled that Laredo’s had – on a visit some million years ago – some excellent steaks, particularly their ‘corazon de filete‘ which was very tender and delicious.

Unfortunately, the restaurant seems to have aged rather ungracefully; from the moment you arrive and fight with the double doors (and no one is there to greet you, let alone help you get in the damn place) you are under the impression that things are not all that well in Laredo-Land.

The parrillada, a large metal plate of assorted meats (you can choose the combination you would like) served on a small portable barbecue-like anafre, arrives at your table, along with a plate of garnishes including a half-full (ever the optimist, the Critic) bowl of luke-warm and bland frijoles charros (cowboy beans), a grilled onion, a withered half-potato featuring a minimum of cream and bacon garnish and some salad greens.

The meats were not at all great, considering this is a meat restaurant and the Critic suspects that anyone from El Norte would scoff at the notion of this being typical food from northern Mexico. One of the cuts was chewy and full of gristle, the machitos were rather non-macho bland and the arrachera, while tender, was completely devoid of any flavor.

The service was unprofessional and plates were banged and crashed as they reached each diner.

The Critic could not recommend the restaurant for any reason, really, especially considering all the excellent Argentinian meat options out there now in Merida.

One to Five? One. Don’t go. Waste of money, calories and time.

Today the Casual Restaurant Critic, with all the related Critics (Midi, Mini and Better Half) away, decided on having a Chinese lunch at the Nao de China restaurant, formerly known as Hong Kong. The Critic had been wanting to go back after a long absence, but somehow it never happened. Until today.

The draw at this place is the lunch buffet, which at present runs at $82 pesos and includes a soft drink.

Besides the restaurant being a lot larger – the patio in back is now covered and air conditioned and the buffet has been moved from the entrance area to the newer part – the place is basically the same as always.

The food on the buffet steam table is still exactly the same as 5 years ago or so when the Critic was last there. The same stuff! There are spring rolls, fried chicken wings, roasted chicken, a curry dish, a chop suey, some pieces of sushi, the gelatin desserts and a watery soup. Once they were novel and tasty; now they are all really quite horrendous and completely forgettable, bordering on the inedible.

First of all, nothing tastes even remotely fresh. The spring rolls used to be flaky and crunchy, now they are thick and crunchy and rather bland. The chicken wings are lukje warm, not at all crispy; more like chewy and feel as if they have been there for a day or so. The curry and chop suey dishes are warmer, but as bland as eating a paper placemat. The roast chicken was as dry as one of those steer skulls in the desert and needed water to force it down. The gelatinous selection of desserts was not tried, neither was the soup or the plain, unappetizing looking “sushi”.

A complete bust. Even if they charged $25 pesos for this unappealing and extremely limited selection, the Critic would not return.

The Critic was so disgusted that he couldn’t manage another trip to the buffet. A menu was asked for and Chi Maa chicken ordered. The Critic remember that this was always good before, and he wasn’t disappointed when it arrived at the table. Crispy deep fried chunks of batter stuffed with chicken and drizzled with honey and topped with chopped green onions. A huge portion, hot and tasty and served with steamed rice. Much better!

The service was fair, the hostess completely indifferent as was the person in charge of the buffet. They could care less if you were there or not.

Critic’s recommendation? If you have to go, choose the menu over the buffet and watch the people stare enviously as you eat well while they suffer through the tasteless crap from the buffet. Hey it’s their own fault for being so damn cheap.

Total bill was 114 pesos ($82 for the buffet and the rest for the Pollo Chi Maa). Refresco included with the price of the buffet (Pepsi products only, no Coke; even the uniforms have Pepsi embroidered on them).

You are better off at Win Fa or one of the other new Chinese places sprouting up all over Merida as the Oriental Invasion finally comes to the Yucatan.

One to five? This place rates a “don’t bother” – 2.

It’s good to be back in Merida!

For those of us that live in Merida’s norte, getting to La Rueda is a bit if a drive. But the Casual Restaurant Critic is happy to report that it is probably worth it.

On a sunny midweek afternoon which turned into a downpour by the time lunch was over, the Critic and some amigos went for lunch at La Rueda. After hearing so much about this place, the Critic had to see for himself what all the fuss was about.

The restaurant is surprisingly easy to find, and Jorgitos directions couldn’t be simpler. It is a non-descript little place on a corner, a converted house, that had a large sign on top and, as Jorgito noted, a rather conspicuous collection of nice cars out front.

On this occasion, no waiting was necessary and a table – one of about 8 in total – was had in the middle of the air conditioned restaurant. The decoration is unpretentious but pleasant; nicely put together posters, photos and memorabilia related to Argentina is all over the walls.

The 3 amigos ordered a salad to share, which featured real, crisp romaine lettuce, fresh tomatos and strips of prosciutto tossed with a vinagrette dressing. Refreshing. Soft drinks were ordered and since the Critic believes that red wine is good for you, a glass of Cuné Rioja.

As for meat, one of the amigos ordered the veal, while the other amigo and the Critic ordered the churrasco steak. Once the meat arrived, which took a little while, it turned out to be delicious. The chimichurri sauce was, in the Critic’s humble opinion, not needed. A little fatty around the edges, it was perfectly seasoned and cooked and came with a mashed potato garnish that was not very warm and half of a grilled sweet onion. Superb.

Suprisingly, the desserts were not only original but tasty as well! The Praline is what appears to be a homemade hazelnut and almond ice cream and the chocolate pyramid was delicous as well.

The Critic had heard that the prices at La Rueda were ridiculously cheap; one of the amigos mentioned that the menu had had a serious price hike since his last visit. Since he is of Lebanese descent, the Critic believes him, because if anyone notices these things, it’s a paisano.

The bill for the three people, for the food mentioned above, was – with tip – $810 pesos. This is not a lot lower than the bill for 2 meats and a pasta at La Recova on Montejo, reviewed in August. In the Critics opinion, both restaurants are excellent in food quality and service; perhaps the Montejo version is a little nicer in terms of the actual room.

On a scale of 5, this place rates a solid 4.

On a completely unrelated side note, the Critic and amigos finished their lunch just in time, as a comandante of the local police and his family were sitting down to have lunch. With all the drug violence in the formerly white city these days, it would be unwise to remain in such a small space in the immediate vicinity of a police official, one could safely assume. Also, what caught the Critic’s eye was that the officer sat with his back to the plate glass sliding door entrance, a move the Critic wouldn’t have undertaken if he were a member of the police force. Of course, two bodyguards were left on either side of the door to watch for anyone that looked fuereño and suspicious, but a machine-gun drive-by could have made quite a scene…

Provecho!